In this article, I am going to go through the tools I use personally use.  While different people have different ways of assembling models, this is what works for me.

Cleaning:

Washcloth:

IMG 1987  

 

Carnevale models are resin models which mean that they will often have mold release that needs to be cleaned off before you glue or paint them.  I actually use two washcloths when I clean the models. 

 

I place one in the sink covering the drain, you will be washing small items and having a washcloth over the drain keeps them from falling into that drain.  

The second washcloth I fold in half and place the model pieces on after I have washed them to let the dry.

 

Soap and Toothbrush:

IMG 1996    IMG 1997  

 

I find that washing the models with an old toothbrush seems to clean them pretty well.  In addition, it will remove some of the flash making clean up easier.  To wash them, put some soap on the toothbrush, wet the piece to be clean, and then scrub it down.  Once you have gone over it really good, rinse the piece off and put it on the dry washcloth.

 

Assembly:

Cutting Mat:

IMG 1986  

One of the most important things is to have a hobby surface that you are ok with messing up.  You will cut it, pour glue, pour paint, and who knows what else to it.

 

Overhead Light:

You will notice in my pictures that there is an overhead light.  This is really important as it helps you better see the details such as the attachment points.  I use a daylight LED light on a boom but there are numerous types available.

 

Magnifier:

IMG 1995  

These parts are small and trying to fiddle with them can be difficult.  This is where a nice pair of magnifiers come in to play.  Since I'm old and wear glasses I use a clip-on magnifier that I can flip out of the way when I need to.  If you don't wear glasses, a pair of reading glasses work well.
 

Clippers:
  IMG 1991

Clippers are one of the most common tools you will see on articles like this.  These are used to remove the pieces from the sprues.  They can also be used to remove some of the small vent plugs (resin molds often have extra channels the will fill with resin to make sure resin gets into all the small crevices).  One thing to notice on these clippers is that the cutting edges meet together instead of sliding over each other like a pair of scissors.  This is important as the scissor style can snap the resin.

 

Jeweler's Saw:

IMG 1989  

While clippers are fine for the smaller pieces of resin, some of the resin plugs are too large to easily remove with clippers.  This is where a jeweler's saw comes in handy.  It is like a coping saw, but the blade is much finer, allowing you to get into smaller areas.

 

Craft Knife:

IMG 1994  

While many people use a craft knife to remove the parts from the sprue, I find that using the knife can break the resin parts, which is why I prefer to use the clippers or the jeweler's saw.  The craft knife I use to clean the mold lines (extra pieces of resin from where the parts of the mold meet) off of the part.  I do this by placing the blade on the model perpendicular to the model and scrape along the edge lightly.

 

Files and/or Sandpaper:

IMG 1993  

Files and Sandpaper allow you to remove that extra resin left after scraping with the knife and little pieces that are left after cutting off pieces of sprue.  Sandpaper comes in sheets or sticks.  Of the two, I prefer the sticks because I can control the pressure better.  Though typically I use files over sandpaper.

 

Tweezers:

IMG 1992  

Remember when I mentioned we are dealing with small parts?  Yeah, if you have big fingers like me, a pair tweezers are a wonderful addition to hold the small pieces in place while the glue clues.

 

Glue:

IMG 1988  

Remember how I mentioned glue in the section on tweezers?  This is the glue I use.  I prefer a gap filler glue over the thinner stuff as it doesn't run and it allows me to fix mess-ups where me cleaning up the parts have created fit issues.  One thing to note is like plastic models, you have to use CA glue (often sold under the brand name SuperGlue).  Typical plastic glues do not work on resin the way it does on plastic.